[Genie]

Genie on February 20, 2015 at 5:03 pm · in reply to: Untethered mode #1877

Hello Megatron

Untethered mode is a feature in 3D printers. In this mode, the printer is fed G-code through a memory card instead of being connected or tethered to a computer. This is specially helpful when one has multiple printers or is printing a model which can take a long time to complete.

It is very much possible to add this feature to your printer, provided you can tweak the firmware and add a SD card reader to the controller board in your printer. The necessary instructions are to be added to the firmware, so that the printer can be guided to read the G-code from the SD card and print accordingly.

[Genie]

Genie on February 18, 2015 at 5:54 pm · in reply to: Voltage for Dimensional Motors #1876

Hello Mage

The suggested voltage for most of the 3D printers is 0.425V. But before you think of tweaking the voltage, first try to grease the components to ensure that the motors work smoothly. If you still want to tweak the voltage, one can safely increase the voltage to 0.55V but not beyond that.

[Genie]

Genie on February 15, 2015 at 4:47 pm · in reply to: Motors #1871

Hello Megatron

All the three stepper motors might or might not be the same. This exclusively depends on the model of the printer. However, one can definitely use same motors for all the three axis.

Regarding the second part of the question, as to how to choose the stepper motors for replacements, there are several factors one needs to consider. First factor is the form factor. You need to search for a motor which would fit into the existing slot or assigned place. If it is different you would have to do a lot of tweaking.

Secondly, you need to consider the torque of the motor. You need to verify the amount of current that is required for the motor to achieve the necessary torque. Will the board support such an amount of current?

Finding out answers for these questions on form factor, torque and driving current will ease the process of sourcing the correct replacements.

[Genie]

Genie on February 14, 2015 at 3:02 pm · in reply to: Sides of the print getting distorted #1870

Hello Megatron

The symptoms stated by you are seen when the layers cool down unevenly. Because of difference in temperatures, the model can curl out or shrink in. The solution to this problem is to use a Raft. Raft is a part added beneath the model. It separates the model and preheated build plate. Raft is so built that it can be easily removed from the model, leaving the base intact. This separation helps in reducing the temperature differences, thereby saving your model from distortion

[Genie]

Genie on February 7, 2015 at 2:41 pm · in reply to: Extruder Offset #1867

Hello Angela

Before we understand more about the ‘offset’ setting in the Slic3r software, let us recall that extruder’s job is to deposit or extrude plastic at a designated space co-ordinate on X, Y and Z axis relative to origin (0,0), a fixed point in space.

In the case of a multi extruder printer, each extruder would be generally used for a different material. Only one of these extruders can be set to origin. Rest of the extruders would be at a different position relative to the origin. This difference is called the offset.

The offset has to be catered for, in the G-code. This would enable the next extruder to take over exactly from where the last extruder has left. Generally, this is catered for, by the firmware. The offset setting in Slic3r software is to be used when the firmware does not cater for it.

If the offset value is not set correctly, the extruders would be printing at wrong points in space, even though the code might be pointing to the correct point in space.

[Genie]

Genie on January 29, 2015 at 4:26 pm · in reply to: Non Manifold geometry #1854

Hello Watson

Non manifold geometry can be defined as the kind of geometry which does not exist physically in the world. In more practical ways, it can be defined as difficult or impossible to print. For example a joint with no width at all, or internal faces of a solid structure. These elements just cannot be printed and when attempted to will confuse your printer.

It is advised that these geometries be eliminated from the models when they are spotted, because the longer it is delayed, the harder it becomes to eliminate them.

[Genie]

Genie on January 29, 2015 at 4:13 pm · in reply to: Print getting distorted #1853

Hello Mage

From what I understand from your post, your print is getting warped. This usually happens during the cooling down process of the print. Sometimes they shrink causing the print to warp. This can be solved by using a heated bed. This ensures that the base is heated up and sticks to the platform. Another solution is to use glue. Just ensure that you spread the glue evenly to form a flat surface. You can spread it using a paper too.

[Genie]

Genie on January 29, 2015 at 4:08 pm · in reply to: Power Failure #1852

Hello Angela

The answer is a simple “NO”. Though it is theoretically possible, but in practice, it is very very difficult to make it happen. Unless you are printing a very important print, the only option is to reprint from scratch. More over, once the printer bed cools down, the print comes off the bed, making it difficult to resume the print.

[Genie]

Genie on January 29, 2015 at 4:05 pm · in reply to: Differentiating Materials #1851

Hello Megatron

A simple “Burn Test” is used to differentiate between PLA and ABS.

When a PLA filament is exposed to fire it catches fire and you would notice the following

(a) Blue flame
(b) A dull flame
(c) The filament melts like wax and drips down
(d) On extinguishing, it would retain its orignal colour.

Whereas when a ABS filament is exposed to fire, it too catches fire and you would notice the following

(a) Orange Flame
(b) The flame is very bright
(c) the plastic melts but the way the PLA does.
(d) On extinguishing the flame you would see that the end is charred black.

[Genie]

Genie on January 29, 2015 at 3:48 pm · in reply to: Torture Test #1850

Hello Michael

Torture test was intially designed by Cliff Biffle. He was one of the testers involved with MAKE magazine, which conducted this test on 15 different machines. This test was designed to push the printer to the limits with all kinds of solid structures having surfaces at different gradients. However this cannot be construed as an industry standard, atleast not yet.

You can download the Torture Test files from Thingiverse here to try it on your printer.

[Genie]

Genie on January 24, 2015 at 5:43 pm · in reply to: Effects of Humidity #1844

Hi Michael

Plastics tend to absorb moisture when exposed for certain period of time at a certain temperature. Hence the absorptivity of each plastic differs based on its content, ambient temperature and ambient humidity.

So one need not fear an immediate damage to a spool left open on a rack. The after effects of prolonged exposure to include discoloration and brittleness. This varies from material to material. Similarly absorptivity of moisture too varies.

To prevent this situation, you can always keep the filaments in glass enclosed racks where the environment is controlled. One can also put a back of desiccant which would in turn absorb moisture.

[Genie]

Genie on January 24, 2015 at 5:13 pm · in reply to: Good material for dolls #1843

Hi Angela

The safety of plastic is an important thing to be kept in mind. However when you say safety , it is a very broad term. Let us talk about safety in terms of food. PLA is a bio degradable plastic. It is used in some medical implants which dissolve over a period of time. So it is safe for things which can hold food. But not for hot food and most of the times it is not dishwasher safe too as they tend to heat up to sterilize, which can spoil the print for you. Hence each type of filament can discussed in terms of safety according to situation.

The best filament one would recommend for dolls would be ABS since it is a little harder and not as brittle as PLA

Lastly regarding price and availability of colours, there is no difference in terms of colours between types of plastics and price depends largely on the grade and make of plastic and less on type of plastic.

[Genie]

Genie on January 24, 2015 at 4:40 pm · in reply to: Printer is Shaking #1842

Hi Griffin,

Shaking of a machine is observed either due to faulty stepper motors in the axis or due to printing at higher speeds. Since you have mentioned that your printer is relatively new, you must be printing at higher speeds. Though you can print at higher speeds, prior to doing so you need to enable acceleration settings. You can navigate to this setting through the LCD panel by navigating to Info and settings > General Settings > Accelerate.

Another point to note is , that this setting is by default in “ON” mode. If you have set it to ” OFF” mode you should not print above the speed of 40mm/sec.

[Genie]

Genie on January 24, 2015 at 4:36 pm · in reply to: Different patterns appearing on the bottom of print #1841

Hello Angela

The problem you are facing is one of the most common problems in the world of 3D printing. The causes for such formations are of a wide range and hence beyond scope. But the good news is, that there is a way to eliminate this problem altogether. The solution is to print a raft for your model.

In the world of 3D printers raft is a peel-able base which ensures that the model sticks to the print bed and prevent flaring of the base of the model. At the end of the print this addition layer can be peeled of easily. Therefore your prints would be safe from any patterns at the bottom, since they would be on the raft which could be peeled away.

[Genie]

Genie on January 4, 2015 at 1:32 pm · in reply to: Optimum temperature for PLA #1803

Hello Michael

The optimum temperature for PLA is 210 degrees centigrade. However this temperature varies with different PLA filaments. It can vary from 180 degrees centigrade to 230 degrees centigrade depending on the make and type of the filament. The best source for this information is the Data Sheet for the filament. This data sheet contains all the details regarding the material properties of the PLA filament, ranging from melting temperature, feed throat temperature etc.

Regarding your question of ease in printing in higher temperatures. This is a wrong notion. The temperature has to be in the optimum range or around the optimum range. Higher temperature causes extruder to malfunction.

Why is it the optimum temperature? This has to do with the thermal properties of the filament. As mentioned earlier, optimum temperature differs from filament to filament. According to the temperature profile of each filament the temperature of operation varies. Making it necessary to choose the type of filament as per use and accordingly make changes to the temperature settings as necessary.