Genie

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Viewing 5 posts - 31 through 35 (of 35 total)
  • Participant
    Genie on · in reply to: Alignment of Build Plate #1801

    Hello Megatron

    Alignment of a 3D printer build plate is the first thing to be done before printing any job. Even if you think that plate is aligned, it still pays to check it once again. It is that important to get a quality print.

    Alignment ensures that your build plate is at the correct distance from your extrusion head at all the points on the plate. Which in turn ensures accuracy of the print without any distortions.

    Alignment is done with the help of built in functions of the printer or manually as per your model. All the printers come with specific instructions on how to align the build plate.

    The goal of the exercise is to bring your printer head or extrusion nozzle nearest to various points on the build plate, preferably starting at center and then towards four corners. One should be able to insert a sheet of paper between plate and nozzle. If you are unable to or if you feel that the gap is more, then you can adjust the distance by tightening or loosening the screws nearest to the printer head. Most of the build plates have a minimum of three screws which are meant for alignment of the plate.

    It should be kept in mind that this process is a trial and error process and requires a lot of patience.

    Participant
    Genie on · in reply to: Joining various parts #1800

    Hi Angela

    You have understood correctly. One of the limitations of a 3D printer is definitely the size of the model that it can build. However, as you have said, this limitation can be overcome by cutting the model in the modelling software in to parts with flat surfaces so that they can be glued together at a later stage.

    To join the parts there many options available as of today and most of them work equally well with ABS and PLA. One can use epoxy adhesives or cyanoacrylate adhesives (Superglue). A chemical solvent can also be used for bonding. A solvent generally melts plastic on the both the surfaces to be joined, fusing the parts together.

    All the above mentioned ways are for plastic parts. In case of metal parts they can always be welded as per the material used.

    Participant
    Genie on · in reply to: Layer resolution #1796

    Hello Michael

    Your question sounds logically correct, but presents difficulties when implemented practically.

    Firstly the yearning for thinner and finer resolutions exists because, the prints with fine resolution give a very good finish. For example if one opts for higher thickness level you would find that the surface would be coarse and layers more noticeable.

    Some printers allow you to adjust the Z axis thickness. So thinner the layer, the more time it takes to print, but at the same time more smoother in appearance. So it is a kind of trade off between time taken to print and fineness of the print.

    Coming to the maximum thickness of a layer, it will be the diameter of the nozzle of your extruder. For thicker prints opt for a nozzle with higher diameter.

    Participant
    Genie on · in reply to: Extrusion Head #1795

    Hello there.

    First let us define extruders here.

    Extruder is the entire unit which does the job of melting the plastic to continuosly pushing it out.

    So by definition the entire extruder need not be changed to achieve different thickness levels. The extruder has a nozzle. The diameter of the nozzle determines the thickness of the layer. Hence nozzles of different diameter are available for respective models. So if you want a thicker print then opt for a thicker nozzle.

    As far as interchanging extruders is concerned, they are specific to the models and generally it is not advisable for a newbie. If you have enough expertise to tinker around then sky is the limit.

    Lastly, if you are interested in multiple extruders then MakeMex’s MM1 Modular 3D printer is worth a try.

    Participant
    Genie on · in reply to: Converting files into G-Code #1786

    Hi

    Welcome to the world of 3D printing.

    Before we go in to how to convert files into G-code let us understand what is G-Code

    The program which does the conversion is called a Slicing Program. As the name suggests, it slices the the model in to fine layers. This slicing has to be dimensionally correct.These slices are then used to calculate the path and extruded material for each layer so that, the data can be converted in to a form to help the printer move its components correctly to print a perfect 3D model.

    This process is not unique to 3D printing, it is also used in CNC machines too.

    Conversion.

    The conversion is carried out using programs such as Slic3r, Skeinforge, Replicator-G Pronter face etc. while most of them are free to download there are commercial applications too such as Netfabb. Down and Install them. These programs ultimately will run your printer. So the tip for slicing is to basically define your end product or print in terms of settings on these software, for e.g. Wall thickness, Fill density etc.

    Hope I have answered your question.

Viewing 5 posts - 31 through 35 (of 35 total)